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About FormulaFox

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  1. So, ETA Prime -whom I mentioned in my original post- is making a handheld out of the previously-mentioned LattePanda Alpha. His emulation tests of the board never included PCSX2(he's only gone so far as to say it can handle Dreamcast and Gamecube), but he is going to be using BigBox as it's frontend. I've dropped a question for him regarding this matter - don't know if he'll be able to reply, though. Even if it falls just short, it's itneresting to see that single board computers really are THIS close to being able to make it possible for us to get handheld emulation on the PS2 level. EDIT: I stand corrected. Apparently ETA Prime did some PCSX2 tests on the LattePanda Alpha last year and it actually DOES work - somewhat. Not everything emulates well, but its very close to functioning well.
  2. I'm not looking to carry the entirety of any library with me. I'm not that......Hmm...What word should I use to not come off as offensive to any specific group? Bah, better to just elaborate. My existing GC/PS2/PS1 library clocks in under 100GB, and would not likely be expanded much(if at all) for this, and my NES/SNES/SMS/Genesis/Atari/Arcade library -which would NOT be expanded at all- is under 5GB. In my case, at least, storage would not be an issue. Good 256GB USB3 flash drives are readily available for under $50 these days. The portability of the system to run it is very much the primary bottleneck to overcome. AFAIK, the only single board PC that hits performance that can, in theory, handle PCSX2 is the LattePanda Alpha, and at that price($300-$400 depending on which version you get) being capable of something "in theory" isn't good enough. And of course mini-PCs aren't exactly "mini" enough for a handheld portable(not ones of sufficient power, anyway), and usually don't work well with portable power solutions(it's hard enough to find a power bank that has enough output to keep the Raspberry Pi from throttling it's performance due to undervoltage). It may indeed be a few years before this is possible. But I'd certainly like this idea to be in the back of people's minds to come back to as technology develops.
  3. Actually, storage ain't that big an issue either... Not with how big flash drives are getting these days. That limits our options for the core unit, obviously, but there a lot of issues limiting that anyway. I doubt storage is going to be our bottleneck.
  4. (not sure if I'm in the right section, please move thread to the appropriate subforum if I am not) Hokay, so, this is a weird proposal that I have no idea if is even possible, but it's an idea I like a lot and would like to look into the possibilities thereof. A while back, Youtuber ETA Prime made a "GhettoPi Boy" that was a pretty neat piece of kit for portable emulation up to the PSX level(if you did it with a Pi 3 B+). But over time I began to wonder if it would be possible to make something similar that could take it a step farther and make a similar piece of kit that could handle up to PS2/XBox/GC. Obviously we ain't using a Raspberry Pi for this, we're gonna need a fair bit more power. What I'm wondering is if there's ANY sort of mini PC, or even some single-board computer with enough power that I know not the existence of, that would be small enough to make this work? Is it even possible to find hardware that would be able to connect to it in a package that could be kept in dimensions close to what's being aimed for here? Power would be an issue since we'd need to run it off a portable power bank, and at the power output PS2 emulators need that could be difficult. But basically I want to look into this in two stages; Is it possible on ANY level, and then is it possible without spending an absolute fortune on it? Things we need to solve for: Computer of sufficiently small form factor while retaining sufficient power - will need to have Bluetooth, as well Sufficient supply of portable power to said computer Display of about 4-5 inches that will work with the build The controller is a simple matter - any telescopic controller will work as long as the computer has Bluetooth. Anyone else interested in looking into such an insane(ly awesome) concept? EDIT: I should also make note I'm looking to see if this solution can be made solder-free. Something that anyone with the money could slap together easily once they have the parts - I'm sure it's very possible to make a portable system of this type if you can solder things together.
  5. That wouldn't be an issue. I have a USB to microUSB adapter to connect a mouse until I ensured touch drivers were running.
  6. I know, I've messed with Lakka before. I could never get it to work right without it actually being installed - thus my comment about not wanting to mess with the OS. If I'd been able to run it reliably off a flash drive or SD card, I'd have already given it a go. And for the record I've also tried Recalbox - with which I had few issues with testing without installing before on other computers. It HAAAAAAAAAAATES this thing's hardware. Words cannot describe how much Recalbox HATED this device - I couldn't even power it off or force a reboot, I had to let it run out of juice!
  7. I'm not talking about using BigBox here. I'm specifically looking at basic Launchbox - I know it's limited, but this isn't supposed to be a high-end build - it's mostly a novelty to get SOMETHING out of some old hardware rather than it just sitting and collecting dust. The high-end design comes much later down the road with the OTHER project I'm looking at, but cannot afford to do at this time. As for Lakka, I'm not going to mess with this thing's operating system. I do want to keep it ready to go in case something happens with my main tablet.
  8. Hello, all. I've not really used Launchbox much, just some experimentation with it now and then, but I've been impressed enough to decide to use it as a basis for an arcade cabinet project. Two, in fact, but only one is relevant here. It's a bit of an oddball, but I think it's an interesting idea to try. This might actually be a bit much for "noob" help, but as I have limited experience it nonetheless seemed appropriate. But if there's a better subforum for a thread of this nature, PLEASE move the thread to it - I have no desire to clutter up the wrong forum. In any case, the main thing I want to know is what I can expect to get running on Launchbox via my chosen hardware. This is where things get interesting - this project is a mini bartop arcade cabinet that will mostly be self-fabricated, and the hardware was chosen for the reasons of repurposing old hardware. The hardware? Well, it's an old Windows 10 tablet. Yes, a Windows 10 TABLET. Specifically, an Ematic EWT826BK (specs can be found here: https://ematic.us/product/ematic-8-hd-windows-10-tablet-32gb-with-wifi-intel-atom-z3735g-processor-docking-keyboard-ewt826bk/ ) This obviously isn't a top-line computer - it's close to a Raspberry Pi 3 B+ in performance specs(it's major benefit over the Pi is not mentioned on the page; it's CPU can boost itself by 0.5GHz when stressed), but the idea behind this project is that I can easily install/remove it from the cabinet in case I ever need it for something else(it IS my emergency backup tablet). The main question is, like I said before, what can I expect to emulate on this? Is the RAM enough to handle things beyond the Pi or am I limited to about the same level? The great thing about this idea is that I really only need to build a cabinet and come up with an input solution. Bu that brings up the big issue(and the one this may not be the best place to inquire about, but I'm hoping someone can send me in the right direction), which you'll notice if you look over the tablet's specs, is that it has only a single microUSB port for both charging AND connecting peripherals. You cannot maintain full battery power while running a peripheral through the MicroUSB, which could be a bit of an annoyance. But the tablet DOES have Bluetooth which makes me wonder if there exists, or there is a method to build, a Bluetooth arcade stick setup. I have no soldering skills, so any build with need to be a solder-free method, but if it were possible it's be a decent solution. I'm hoping I can make this work somehow. Any and all advice on the idea would be greatly appreciated.
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