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my 4 player cabinet - i feel like a kid again. lol


DannyShane

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I'm so glad i found Launchbox, I asked a ton of questions in this forum, and the mods and other members always helped me out. So thank you all very much! I finally built my first arcade box. I'm a little disappointed in myself because there are a few mistakes but i know better for the next build.  :)  

I made a 4 player cabinet and I knew prior that it would be big, but i needed gauntlet, i needed it!!. lol. I used to have the real gauntlet in my living room back in my 20's and i think it only cost $700 back then. now the price is insane.   I think my roommate  back then bought a centipede for only about $300.  times changed quick. lol 

I'm not a carpenter but this thing is SOLID. in fact its too big to get out of my house so if i sell, i guess they get this with it. lol.

(its not totally finished, I have to order the marquee).   
Actually, i have a question in case someone might know... I made up a graphic for my control panel with photoshop and i got it printed at gameongrafix.  its nice, they did a great job. but what do you guys put around the edges to keep people from messing up the edges of the graphics?    I seen a video where some guy had a router and used "t" something but i dont have a router and i doubt i could get it straight like that, so is there another method? just curious.  ok i wrote a novel. lol

 

20190107_213341.jpg

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yeah I wish I thought about it prior to building this thing because I would have bought the tool.  but now that its painted and soen fo the graphics are on, I think the tool would scratch it all up. because I assume it has to ride the angled surface.  

Edited by Hayata
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You could rent a router from a home big box store if you don't want to buy one. Get a slot bit. Then just put tape on the router plate so it won't scratch your painted surfaces. As long as you have access around the outside of the cabinet so the router won't butt against something to stop the cut, it will work great. So if you put the cabinet on its side, you can go all the way around each side. The router slides along the broad surface of the side like hand sander and the depth adjustment is handled by the bit itself. You buy them by the thickness and depth of the cut. There is a polished bearing that rides along the surface you are cutting into to that holds the depth (it spins free from the cutting bit so that friction isn't a problem as it rides along). So you don't need a guide rail. 

If you have any molding that needs to go perpendicular to the sides, you would have to take things apart.

slot bit.png

You could also use this, which I use for shelves, boxes, and some other projects I built:

Plastic Edge Banding

You can google "iron-on edging" or "iron-on veneer" and see a lot of options to see if that works better for you than routing out a t-molding slot (Or "T-Moulding" for our Brit cousins ;) ).

Edited by FlightRisk
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hmm, it might be do-able. 

Just so i make sure i understand this....  The piece of the router that sits on top of my control panel (and graphics) does 'not' spin?  and therefore wont scratch my graphics? if that's the case., i will be going to rent one today or tomorrow.  or possibly buy one depending on how expensive they are

let me know, and thanks for your help and explanation. it is very much appreciated. my graphics wont last long with no molding at the edges

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Yes, so if you sat your cabinet on one side with the graphics facing up, the router has a flat, circular plate with the bit pointing down on the center. You can search for videos with "router t-molding" and see exactly how it's done. So you put the router down on your graphics (with thin tape on the bottom plate just to make sure there is nothing to scratch your nice paint job and graphics). You place the router onto your panel with half of it falling off the edge and the bit just missing the wood edge where the cut will go. You turn it on and pull the router inward so it starts to cut. When the ball bearing race hits the wood, it stops the cut from going deeper. This bearing just sits against the wood with the bit spinning inside it and the outer edge cutting the groove. Then you just push the router around the edge of your wood panel tracing it's outline and keeping the bit set against the edge. The bearing rolls across the edge like a guide (sort of like a roller skate wheel), so it too doesn't scratch or burn the edge by friction since it doesn't spin, it just rolls as you push the router along. Here is a very short video that shows the bottom view of the router doing its job. Look at a few more, test on a piece of scrap, and you will be an expert ;)

Cutting the slot for the t-molding (video)

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You are welcome. Be sure to check back in and let us know how it goes. Pics would be great if you have the time. Check this out. At about 2:24 he shows his router and does exactly what we've been talking about. He also has tips about things he would do differently like a cabinet with no sharp angles and doing it before he put 3/4s of it together :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4OjP_5HEzs

Edited by FlightRisk
fixed typo
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  • 3 weeks later...

make sure you get the right size T-slot bit to match your tmolding barb size. Go to T-molding.com and look at the barb thickness as well as the tmolding and the tslot bit they sell both. The standard size to use is the 1/16" slot cutter. This is the 4 player I just completed for a client. It's based off the TMNT/Simpson's style cab.

 

51003397_1505888259541870_3664977949674700800_n.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

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