Jason Carr

@Simon_BroQuest Sorry for the late reply, but we are hoping that this is fixed for you in the latest official release.

We did add some fixes for the 0-byte files thing into the latest release that came out in December.

@Clutz450 Sorry for the late reply. We've heard about this issue on very rare occasions, but we have yet to figure out why it's happening. By chance, are you running LaunchBox as an administrator? Where is your media stored? Does that folder require administrator rights? The only other idea I have that could be causing the issue is some kind of group policy restriction caused by using LaunchBox on a work PC that is managed by your organization.

Thanks, noted guys. On my list.

Okay, thanks for the update, and sorry for the late reply. I'm guessing that this issue must somehow be specific to that R58X device. I wish I had better news for you. I'm not sure if we'll be able to fix it without having the device on hand. It appears that for whatever reason, it's having trouble writing to the LaunchBox folder, which makes sense since it's on a portable drive. Unfortunately some of the lesser-known vendors have very buggy code in for file permissions on Android 12, especially with external devices. It may help to put the large ROM files on the external device, while keeping the LaunchBox folder on internal storage.

@Flyojumper Sorry for the late reply here. For performance reasons, LaunchBox for Android does not automatically pick up images from the file system for any image category. However, if the files are named correctly, you should be able to run the "Download Missing Media" process for the platform and it should pick them up.

Sorry for the late reply here. We'll need to know details on the devices you're testing with in order to help (make and model). It is best to use the sideloaded version of RetroArch, because Google has severely crippled the versions from the Play Store, so that may be related to your issues.

Also keep in mind that there are some relevant options available in the main options screen in order to control how the default navigation works.

Unfortunately the issue is more with the Nvidia Shield than anything with the software. The Nvidia Shield hasn't really been properly updated since 2015, so almost 8 years ago now, and the hardware is ancient at this point. It has definitely been a struggle even keeping the app working on such old hardware, and the hardware wasn't even very good back when it came out in 2015. Regardless, if you'd like to try a different frontend and would like a refund, just email us at support@unbrokensoftware.com.

Thank you guys. I have these translations in for the official, which should be out shortly.

No worries! Apologies that I didn't get this into the latest beta that we're putting out. I'll make sure it goes into the next official at least.

Hey all, it's that time again! Apologies for the short notice...unfortunately I forgot to update everyone late last week. We're planning on putting out the next official release in 2 days on Wednesday. I have the release notes and the translation packages all updated. Thank you all! @Offone @Kondorito @Cauptain @Nyny77 @Opak @dukeemu @cyanjiang @Just001Kim @MajKSA @gamehacker @alexposad @k_kutsugi @Bardock @Soomin papa

Oic, yeah, MIUI. I hate to say it, but those Xiaomi Chinese devices are the worst for stability. What you're describing is pretty much guaranteed to be a bug with their firmware.

Unfortunately that sounds like a device-specific issue. What device are you using?

Generally, you can do this in your Android settings. You can usually do this from your top status bar.

Hi @blaqf00t, unfortunately I don't have any good leads on why this would be happening. What device are you using?

Thanks, Andy. I did finally figure that out (about replacing the wires in the wire harness), but only after searching around online for hours. I think my biggest complaint about everything has just been a lack of documentation. To some extent, I understand, because I write software of course and people are always asking for documentation, so I'm getting a taste of my own medicine there. Having an email address available for support is great, but honestly, no one wants to wait to hear back on an email when they're building a cabinet, because of the excitement involved. For that reason, it would be much better to provide those answers via some kind of documentation on the website, because I'm sure there are a lot of common questions that are asked. But anyways, per the wiring harness, the main issue is that initially I had no idea what to search for to figure out how to replace those wires. For the longest time I couldn't even figure out what those plastic pieces are called, so it took forever just to find any instructions on how to replace them. I did finally figure it out, but only after breaking pieces, and I ended up having to buy another kit. Maybe I just missed it, but I could not find any relevant documentation for any of that on the Ultimarc website. In fact, it seems like Ultimarc is just letting various YouTubers make tutorials and linking to them. Those videos have been helpful (and I wouldn't have been able to do anything without them), but digging through various YouTubers content and relying on YouTube's search algorithm is rather difficult when all you need to know is the order of parts to place on a joystick shaft (for example). What I've finally ended up with on my controller board is great, but there have been many iterations and fixes at this point, most of which could have been avoided with proper documentation and some improved design: I'm sure the wiring harnesses are big enough for smaller cabinets, but they're definitely not big enough for 32" widescreen cabinets, which these days I'm guessing are likely more common for hobbyist cabinet builders. The extension kits are helpful for this, but: It should likely be more obvious when and where they are needed when purchasing It would be very nice if they came assembled with all longer wires already in a wiring harness, to avoid the finicky process of having to replace the wires As an alternative, some documentation is at least needed on how to replace the wires Originally I purchased Mag-Stik Plus joysticks, which were somewhat of a disappointment for me, because they're so difficult to manually switch between 4 and 8 ways. I ended up replacing them with ServoStik joysticks, which have been a massive improvement and are working great. Some feedback: I would consider retiring (or at least recommending against) the Mag-Stik Plus joysticks, because the ServoStik joysticks are better in pretty much every way, and the cost difference is minimal. Reducing the confusion as far as what is recommended to order would be a significant help in this regard. It would be nice if there was a package that contained the two ServoStik joysticks and the control board for purchase. I understand why it's a separate product, but as it stands, it leaves the possibility of purchasing the joysticks and forgetting to purchase the controller board. This is a common theme though with a lot of products when purchasing. I purchased the LED balltops for my ServoStiks, and I really like them. However, I've had some issues with the LED connector (that looks like a headphone jack) becoming disconnected during extended/rough play. I've since wrapped the housing up in electrical tape and so far I haven't seen that issue happen anymore. I've had one of the ServoStik joysticks completely disassemble and fall apart when one of my more heavy-handed friends was playing on the cabinet. I'm not positive, but I think this was because I didn't tighten the screws on the restrictor plate enough. After reassembling it and tightening the screws, we haven't seen any further issues (yet). Documentation on this would have been helpful. The LED balltops themselves screw on, and I feel like I'm constantly having to tighten them during gameplay. Part of this is caused by the fact that I don't know how to tighten them other than by hand. Perhaps there's a good way to use a tool to tighten them? Some documentation on this would be helpful as well. There's a lack of documentation on assembling the ServoStiks with the LED balltops, other than buried in various YouTube videos, and it's really hard to find and relatively confusing. More documentation on this is needed. Putting the little metal piece on the shaft of the ServoStik joysticks is rather difficult (the piece that holds all of the pieces onto the shaft). Maybe some documentation would be helpful with this, or a tool, or something. It's definitely a struggle during assembly. I also purchased the U-Trak trackball. Some feedback on that: I used the included mounting mechanism so that nothing shows up on top of the board. Unfortunately, after about a day of normal play, the gold pieces that are pushed into the plywood ended up falling out and the trackball fell into the cabinet. I've superglued them back into the plywood, and so far it's holding. It would be nice if there was a better mounting mechanism for 3/4" plywood, so that there isn't the double-lip (I'm using the optional trim bezel). I had to use extension wires for the trackball as well. This also wasn't obvious what I needed to purchase to extend the wires, and it's an especially difficult pain because the wires are all separate (instead of being inside of a longer harness). Finally, some feedback on the GoldLeaf RGB buttons: I purchased the RGB logo cap packs. I didn't know it at first, but I ended up having to purchase three packs at $7 each. I used the Start1, Start2, and Coin pack as normal, but bought two of the Pause, Exit, Run, and Volume packs so I could repurpose some of the graphics for other buttons (I used the Pause one as a Menu/tab button for MAME and just rotated it horizontally). I would have loved to have additional logos for a Power button and left and right mouse buttons for the build. Also with the RGB logo caps, after assembling the whole board I noticed that they were randomly rotating after use. Eventually I was able to solve this by putting a very small drop of super glue on the cap inserts so that they don't move around inside of the buttons. To my relief, the super glue is not visible through the LEDs and they don't move around, so that was definitely a successful fix. Some documentation on this would definitely have helped. Without the glue they don't stay oriented, so it's definitely a necessary step, and I couldn't find any documentation on this anywhere online, so it was just a stab in the dark. The buttons themselves are wonderful; they were the most straightforward and immediately successful part of the build. Hopefully all of that is helpful feedback. All in all, I'm very happy with my controller board (which is really all Ultimarc); it just took me a lot of trial and error to get there. Thanks Andy.

This might work for browsing files for use in the app, but wouldn't likely work when sending those files on to emulators for playing the games. Some emulators are configured to work properly with all of those features, but most aren't.

All email issues should be resolved now. Unfortunately our provider had another elongated issue. We may be looking to switch providers here if this happens again. Sorry for the trouble. We're not aware of any known issues like that with the latest version of the desktop apps. Usually, something like this is caused by anti-virus or anti-malware software.

Any chance you're running out of space on the R58X?

Thanks for the report. I did add a fix into the 1.7 release that will go through and delete any 0-byte files when starting the Download Missing Media process.

Unfortunately this is a known issue now. Details are here:

It is a planned update, but I'm not sure on the priority exactly. No license is needed for the Windows app; the free version works fine without any limitations. You'll just need to import the games and videos into the Windows app.

This does look to be an issue with .NET of some sort. It's probably worth uninstalling .NET Core 3.1 and reinstalling it from here: https://dotnet.microsoft.com/en-us/download/dotnet/thank-you/runtime-desktop-3.1.32-windows-x64-installer You need the ".NET Desktop Runtime 3.1.32" for x64.

I think if you wait a bit longer, the app will recover and you'll be able to proceed with the import. It may look like it's frozen for a bit, but isn't really.