Lordmonkus

Not even up on Amazon.ca yet.

The problems with the Creators Update though are in LB starting up or some other error related to DX or .NET. Yours is specifically a Mame not finding roms issue. At this point in time I am going to make a suggestion and obviously it is totally up to you whether or not you want to do it. Try out a command line version of Mame. I use the command line version myself because to me it so much faster to set up. All I do is generate an .ini file and change my rom path in it to where my roms are and it just works. Check it out if you want or don't. The guide has helped quite a few people get their Mame up and running.

I really don't believe its a Creators Update because we have people using that without the issue you are having. The problems with the CU stem from video drivers and direct x requiring a reinstall.

Ok, thanks for the screenshots and believe me, we are working on this issue and trying to work out what could possibly be the problem and we are all equally stumped at this point. Everything you are showing us appears to be correct and should work. If this is a bug on Launchbox it is certainly not one any of us have ever run into and any time anyone has had an issue it is always a rompath issue.

I know you posted them in the other thread last night but can you post images of your Edit Emulator window and Associated Platforms tab again. Specifically these: Ignore the -state 0 command line parameters in mine.

Yes, G-Sync is Nvidea tech and you need Nvidia video cards. AMD video cards support Freesync which is their tech. Brand no. IPS vs TN, that will be up to you. IPS will give you richer colours and better viewing angles but will cost slightly more and have a very small amount of extra input lag but it is extremely small so nothing to really think about. IPS monitors can also have some backlight bleed which basically means on dark scenes you may see some light bleeding out at the corners. Mine is a TN and I am fine with it. But it is ultimately up to you. The differences between IPS and TN are minor. I really cannot tell you which monitor to buy specifically, you have to research each one and figure out the best for your situation in terms of cost and size. Just make sure it is G-Sync, it will say it in the description. I would buy one that is 144 Hz though because that will grow with future gaming on the PC side. Just a moderator.

Something I thought of last night in another thread, when you imported your roms into Launchbox did you have Launchbox copy them into a sub folder of Launchbox or did you tell it to leave them where they were.

ZSnes' picture quality shouldnt be any better than Snes9x. Perhaps there was a filter on in Snes9x like bilinear filtering which adds a "blur" effect. ZSnes is such an outdated and deprecated emulator nowadays that no one uses it anymore. Most people use either Snes9x or Retroarch with one of the Snes cores in it. Perhaps we can help you get the video quality more to your liking in Snes9x if you show us a couple of screenshots from ZSnes and Snes9x describing what it is you do and don't like.

I'll start with the easy stuff first. With that CPU you were planning on an Nvidia 1070 is going to be the best value in terms of power for performance. It is going to run any current game you throw at it @ 1440p 60 fps+ without issue. A 1080 Ti is certainly a better card but more than double the price. Now for the monitor part of it. There is zero disadvantage running at resolutions greater than 1080. In fact there are certain advantages depending on your particular tastes. If you are the type of person who wants to mimic the look of a CRT with scanline effects then you will want to run your games at an "integer scale" (i'll explain a little further down) of their native resolution or else the scanlines will be oddly spaced giving a funky and distracting look. If you do not like scanlines than no big deal here at all you can just scale to fit your screen and it doesn't matter. Integer scale means that the games resolution is scaled at an even, non decimal number eg: 3x, 4x, 5x and not 2.5x or 3.5x. Integer scaling at 1080 resolution means you will see some black bars at the top and bottom of your "game screen". This happens because the original game systems such as the NES, SNES, Genesis and others run natively at a vertical resolution of 240 pixels (give or take a few depending on the system). 1080p divided by 240 equals 4.5. If you use an integer you either scale it 4x which gets you 960 pixels leaving 120 pixels to be split into 60 pixels at the top and bottom, these are the black bars. If you choose to scale at 5x integer this is 1200 pixels high which is 120 pixels split by 2 equaling 60 pixels on top and bottom now being cut off by screen. They are rendered but you just wont see them and depending on the game and where it displays certain HUD elements they may get cut off some. At 1440 resolution 240 pixels fits neatly at 6x leaving you with little to no black bars at all. I say little to none because not all systems are 240 pixels in height. Sometimes they might be a little off and you will have some small black bars. A 4K display is 2160 pixels high which has a neat and tidy integer scale of 9. If you do non integer scale what the emulator will do is it will every so many rows of pixels duplicate a row which for the most part is not noticeable at all to most people but to some it is. And if you do decide you want a scanline effect this spacing with a non integer scale will be noticeable. Ok now on to refresh rates. Most TVs and monitors run at 60 Hz and games that run at 60 frames per second are completely happy with this, especially if you turn on V-Sync. V-Sync comes at the cost however of some added input latency making some games more difficult to play. What G-Sync does is it sets your monitors refresh rate to match that of the game and you can have V-Sync off which reduces your input latency and removes any screen tearing caused by a games framerate not matching that of the display. Generally on consoles the games run at 60 fps (European PAL region games run at 50 fps) but arcade games all run at their own oddball refresh rates. You have 2 choices with V-Sync, you can either tell Mame to use V-Sync which will remove the screen tearing but games such as Mortal Kombat will run faster (I believe the original arcade game runs at something like 54 Hz). This speed up of a game can cause minor but possibly distracting uneven scrolling or even cause certain games to run into bugs caused by the new speed, this though is extremely rare. So yes G-Sync monitors (and Freesync for AMD users) will sync the monitor to the game for smooth scrolling at the games proper speed and no screen tearing. It really is the best of all worlds but at the cost of the price of the monitor and locking yourself into a specific video card type for that monitor if you want the G-Sync (or Freesync) feature. Freesync won't work with and Nvidia card and vice versa. If you do want to use a scanline shader effect they actually look better on a higher resolution display type because of pixel density. The shader has more pixels per square inch to work with making the scanline effect much better looking. Now for a bit more on input lag. Generally speaking TVs are worst and can add quite a bit of it though this depends and varies from TV to TV but they can add anywhere from 80 to 160 milleseconds or even more delay. This is because of hardware in the TV for processing the image to make it look better for TV shows and Movies. Most TVs do have a "Game Mode" which turns off this extra image processing but they still have quite a bit of input lag compared to a regular monitor which has significantly less than a TV. But higher end gaming monitors have even less input lag than a regular average run of the mill monitor. My monitor which is an Asus G-Sync has the input latency in the single digits, somewhere around 2 milliseconds. And I can say going from my TV to my PC monitor it is quite noticeable and going from my CRT TV with my Genesis to my PC it isn't noticeable at all, it feels exactly the same with the same game, MUSHA. Now having said all that I cannot say that an expensive ass G-Sync monitor is for everyone and you do not need to have one to enjoy some good old retro gaming goodness. I often sit on my couch with my TV and play games quite well with the extra input lag. I can however say though that if what I described above does sound like something you would like and you are willing to spend the money on it, it is a worthwhile investment. My monitor cost me 1000$ after taxes here in Canada and I admit I was worried when I bought it that it wasn't going to impress me enough to make me not regret the purchase. I can say that I was not disappointed at all and I was and still am extremely happy with it. Gameplay is butter smooth and controls are responsive and instant making fighting games like Street Fighter an absolute joy to play. If you have any other questions feel free to ask.

No problem.

If during the import process you had Launchbox move or copy the games to a sub folder within your Launchbox folder you should have told it to leave them where they were. If this is the case you should remove your games from Launchbox, clear out the folder in Launchbox where your games got copied to for hard drive space and then re-import them. You shouldn't have to re-scrape and download media because that will still be in you media folders so that will save you a whole bunch of time on the re-import.

1080p is fine for emulation and yes G-Sync is not cheap but I will tell you from first hand experience it is awesome and worth the money if you are looking to dump some money into something that is going to be used for years. There are newer G-Sync displays coming out that are bigger so they will fit in your cabinet. But here is the reason I recommend them (to people willing to spend the money). They have extremely low input latency, especially compared to a TV and the ability to have the monitor adjust it's refresh rate to match the game / emulator is extremely handy especially for Mame arcade games which have odd ball refresh rates. There are some discussions about them here on the forums. In the end it's your system and your money to spend how you want to. I don't know what your total budget for this rig is at but going by the fact you were going to put a 1000 W PSU in it I am assuming you are wanting to dump a couple of grand (or more into it). My advice (and I have been PC gaming for 20 years) is to spend about 1000 to 1500 US dollars on the PC itself and then about another 1000$ on a good gaming monitor. The monitor will carry over to future builds. In my experience in the past a top end gaming rig is just as obsolete in the same amount of time as one that is just one or two notches below and the performance difference is almost always negligible. My currect rig is an AMD 8350, 16 gigs ram, GTX 970 GPU and it handles everything I throw at it running at 1440p and 60+ frames per second. Games like GTA 5 I do have to tinker a little with the settings to get it 60+ FPS but I am running at high to very high settings. Doom (the new one) runs at 90 fps using the Vulkan API at very high settings. Now obviously my PC is nothing even close to considered high end by todays standards but I have been using it now for several years and it's still rocking it out. I have no intentions of spending any money on upgrading it any time soon (this year). Certainly it could do with a little boost in GPU power for running at 1440p but if I was running at 1080p it wouldn't break a sweat on anything unless I went too crazy with things like maximum graphics settings in GTA 5 which has a huge scalability range. Just my 2 cents.

Just my opinion but take what you have said you are putting in there but drop the PSU down to something like 600 W and get a single Nvidia 1070 or a 1080Ti if you really aren't concerned about cost, 16 gigs of ram is more than fine but 32 gigs if you really must do overkill. No games whatsoever will even come close to using 16 gigs let alone 32 of ram. Multiple graphics cards are one of those things that look cool on paper but end up being more hassle than they are worth at times. Not all games support SLI and some even require you to disable the 2nd or 3rd card (if you plan on 3). Remember just because you throw in 2 cards with 8 gigs of vram in each that does not mean you get 16 gigs of vram and it also doesn't mean you get twice the power. The whole concept of "future proofing" a PC is a bogus notion to begin with, nothing is ever future proof because no matter what you build today it will always be outdated in 5 years or less. This is just a fact of technology. The system laid out with what you had in mind combined with what I am suggesting 600 W PSU, Intel i7-7700K, 16 gigs ram, 1070 (or 1080Ti) will drive the current VR tech without issues. Just keep in mind that VR is in a very precarious state right now. While I won't go so far as to say it is dead many people believe it is. I believe we haven't seen yet whether or not it will survive beyond its current state but as things stand right now VR is a gimmick. VR still needs the "killer app" to make it really shine and get the sales of VR head mounts. If that happens we will see more and then who knows what sort of VR tech will come out and require for power to drive it. You might just see no matter what you buy today won't be able to push it and you will end up building another system all together in a couple of years time. If you are building a big badass system for gaming just to show off for epeen points then you are just wasting money you could spend on other things to improve your gaming experience *cough* G-Sync monitor *cough*. Don't get me wrong, I am all for building the best you can afford but there is a point where you are getting very marginal power increase for your dollar. There is a sweet spot and that is generally the 2nd tier of CPU and GPU. Now if you wanted to use your PC for video editing and stuff like that then yeah more power is great but for gaming you really just don't need all that extra power. Now in terms of hard drive space required, that is going to come down to just how many games (and the systems) you want to have. If you are planning on having every game for as many systems as possible then you will need a lot. The PS2, PS1, Gamecube and Wii libraries are quite large and the media type (CD and DVD) makes for large files. If you are planning on a more curated 32 and 64 bit collection then you can go with less. All of my stuff fits with room for expansion on a single 2 TB drive, that includes about 10,500 games and Launchbox.

No problem.

Email support@unbrokensoftware.com with your entry details and they will take care of it.

If you are referring to documentation on Launchbox there is none outside of the forums and Youtube channel. While it would be nice to have some form of documentation it would be a full time job keeping it updated with how fast Jason adds new stuff to it. We also have the Discord channel where many of us hang out and shit and help each other out. As for logs, no, there are no logs of what has been played but in BigBox you can see the "most recently played" for each platform.

Who flamed you and how ?

As you can see I have zero rom files in my Mame 186 roms folder.As you can see here I have my rom locations set in the mame.ini. This is and always been how Mame works. Launchbox itself does not care where your roms are located in reference to Mame. Launchbox only cares for its loading purposes.

I will put this politely. You are incorrect.

No, they don't. If your roms are in a different location you have to tell Mame where to look. My roms are not in the Mame\roms folder ever, but I do tell my Mame where my roms are. This was always the case and is not a "new conflict" so there is no need for a sticky post.

The only thing I can think of off the top of my head is you either imported some roms from a different folder than the one you tested Mame on its own with. Have you set your roms folder location in your Mame ? I've also only been using the standard command line version of Mame for a while now so I cannot remember off the top of my head if the UI version needs any special settings.

Uncheck "Don't use quotes" and "Use file name" in the Edit Emulator window.

Post some screenshots of your Mame emulator settings window in Launchbox please. Specifically the Edit Emulator and Associated Platform tabs.

Winuae is a good option but @Zombeaverdid an awesome guide for FS-UAE which I used and can confirm it is the best way to go as a whole.

Honestly the word SHMUP or saying SNES as a word instead spelling it out is so low on my list of things to care about in gaming I never gave it any thought. But now that I think about it can we shorten Beat Em Up to BUMP ? huh, can we ?