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So I am very familiar with CTC but grossly incompetent with XML. The few bits of XML I can edit are just because I'm learning them due to CTC has it's limits on what it was designed to do. If I want to do it and CTC can't I've learned how to deal with the edit outside of CTC. I've done my googling and lots of comparing to CTC's code it generates for Big Box (which is super different formatted it seems from how most people write by hand) and other themes code to try and figure out the right syntax and position to put it in the view file but whatever bits of font size changing lines or chunks of lines I've entered the best I do is either it changes nothing, or things get spaced out like there are extra blank lines in between each option (but no font size change), or crash the view and the default view is loaded, or just crash Big Box entirely instead lol....I'm at the point of just tossing stuff at the wall to see what sticks and am getting nowhere fast, so I need to wave the white flag and ask for some help! This is regarding the Colorful Dark theme For all I know I am not even editing the right views but it seems like they are OptionsPage and OptionsView. Please correct me if I'm mistaken! I just want to edit the font size of the these options pages to be larger for easier reading from the couch I would really appreciate help on this! Please and thanks! Image for reference on the page I want to change font sizes of. The main options screen and all the various options that come up on the right when you select an option page on the left list. For ex, what I did in CTC to change the System Menu. I want the Options Menu to use same larger font size And here are the two pages code I've been playing with OptionsPage OptionsView

The pics you posted make that system look like it was very well kept! Lots of these guys have bent feet, missing drive sleds, dirty AF, etc. That system looks immaculate for it's age! Nice looking grid mat you got there to work on too! the CPU listing looks like an excellent deal. Those CPUs were going for $100 a piece when I did the upgrade years ago so to find two for ~$65 total is perfect! the GPU listing gives me bad vibes. Do not buy that. Stick to a known, trusted, reputable brand. I've always bought Sapphire brand for AMD cards if I am not getting an actual AMD brand card. The Sapphire Pulse is the model I'd recommend. This by contrast looks much more appealing to me if it were my $, this is used though https://www.ebay.com/itm/375220460596?hash=item575ce1dc34:g:-QAAAOSwah9lttYZ&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8F%2BKGjQsMinXUm2Gpa1ie28Yy4MX%2BzR5h5WdfOcPi185DDJfE1Vj4flwoLBnjSHk122Ck41pcnQuEP9ivZQBEX%2FI6lGrjdMAmNaneTaosTD0IfK6dtUtzGRhZzi9DC%2FXP1vlbh3vrgQzU5Pn%2FkEDk4NQ%2BLZMdGdAp8OBQy8i20EijkovsJJ2afXx7Fw7ntHjnr%2Fs6exfQJnMkdUKUx%2Bs70%2FkOpnShqLca3NzWdSyWR8tzZ6dYtAh%2Fqnt7KBJ39U8Obsux8wr5txVAfiGTlWeVSbtjAGtDeiUXRr0Ow58%2F%2Fp2ZtIumcDmCd8eaQKD2WT4iQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR97hkLOrYw And here is one that is new.....I think it will be difficult to find anything new for this card that isn't some Chinese company selling it. RX 580 came out in like 2017 and is def discontinued. But Powercolor is at least a trusted brand users know in the USA, so if you want new, this would also be more appealing to me https://www.ebay.com/itm/134910724009?epid=6030522182&hash=item1f694e47a9%3Ag%3AlLYAAOSwHytlpE5X&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4JV7qBkWER1YSm7BBiVQ1wbDM543jDMc4mXifncd3kkTCJ8JcrBa2G29KVSyY5eNZettdA%2BSrE9BAGu0qltfNP7CSHR8U6uThx%2FmeOyGAV1uK%2FqTMgxgh%2Bz2RrSIct50V30hH1wYZN6013o7wjpqoSTu%2BDiN3INDNA1AvM38h1OCSoeYH0W6le9ncEcc8AltJMlbD9Lj0TsHzD8DTP%2Bi3e3daHtqc5wbr%2B2jqX%2BJ%2FggWE3thDEzPhfBfR8vgUxF4kfemZqRq%2B2YYh0nG%2Bqj6vAMma%2ByKVVTxYMvzZoDmWzLL|tkp%3ABk9SR9qauYOsYw&LH_ItemCondition=1000 Edit: Gah! Should have checked prior to posting. The Powercolor RedDevil RX 580 uses a 8-pin + 6-pin connector. This card is overclocked from the factory, more powerful, so has another power connector. You cannot get enough juice from the two native mini 6-pin ports. It is possible to use this card, but you need to think outside the box to power it. Like, literally need a 2nd PSU and you can snake the cables into the case through an open PCIe slot. Or a more elegant solution is to use a dual SATA to single 6-pin cable. You can use two of the SATA ports meant for disks and that will give enough power for the card. This assumes you only use up to two of the disk bays since the other two would be used to give power to the GPU. You would need some parts like this The dual SATA to 6-pin cable https://www.ebay.com/itm/353143104747?hash=item5238f824eb:g:0FAAAOSw1xtfEhQ1&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4F7G868o91ii9KfgS3XYgjWpO45zBIsX%2BqTtwQxLbnMAwxZM7PufMcQW%2B%2BbjNiPDnGCX1futK%2BPRWcpa390cZHbqjArKuc1HBxzzWMS8hZP8I1g1e0AN6FhVo1EFlcsMg4njP5NUZ5skaOO1rJJ8qrg7r1ATt7V5R4NhUU%2FNUqkrNULqSMSLWEP6Qxxm2jxcFHyacWggOU0p8Y%2BWn40SN9F2hGjzrC8F12JEidgoOD2mBSnJwY2ZsnOdzibi47s4AK7FQYIRHO6CSA%2FiCq1dM06UdMkGTgqbtJgxW5pbcqNx|tkp%3ABFBMsKelhKxj And I know from experience of doing this with RX 5700 XT, that the dual SATA to 6-pin cable is going to be too short or just BARELY reaches and not connected well and stressed from tension. So you would want to use an extension cable so it has some reasonable slack. This a pack of two, you would need just one, so just sharing this for reference on the part. I also recall I had to break the tab off on the SATA end due to Mac Pro backplane has the SATA power connector directly next to the data connector like on the disk. But these standard SATA connectors weren't meant for connecting to ones that have power and data right next to each other. Imagine the tab ends up poking into the area where the data connector is so it will not go in all the way unless you bust off that little plastic tab. https://www.ebay.com/itm/186269079680?hash=item2b5e809880:g:FxwAAOSwe01lsg7y&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8K%2FNPzmt%2FMUDx3S024l0H4WUj81Bz9p6kVFfNAoNVJx0mcfEH8Sh1wrlf%2FC9B%2B7x0ALmzJ1sQF5sCew5VmkMiu6ssvYhpb7RugUULcoH2gqQA3Ogy6U5cBXrosnAWo3X70TragqP9keCPfuECtL%2BP%2FG9gYrMyqL9Dxtl4W2WiHHaIU%2Fi8cRhQkEDQHBnOBPlkA%2BqgjmujmT37cnTGMn9a9UK6tIaJdxKAI2vJkwCSvFvR1jihSIeqSRxFJ9dQ287XrkuTdtyTS1Me9cwhSq9dsstyDe%2B9L8mFn38bTixqhID6PPcNUZwbsxsDWt1dBDgYg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5biqYSsYw The explanation on why to avoid the first GPU link you posted... I've never even heard of that GPU brand (MLLSE), and the card is 6-pin for some unknown reason! Reference RX 580 uses 8-pin PCIe connector for power, and there are AIB (Add in board - vendors other than AMD) model out there like the Sapphire Nitro version that uses a 8-pin + 6-pin because it's more powerful PCB and overclocked from the factory...but point being, there is no RX 580 variant I am aware of that uses just a single 6-pin. makes me think it could be a fake Chinese knockoff. Could be selling an RX 480 (which uses single 6-pin) that they modded in a sneaky no moral compass kind of way to make it recognize as RX 580 if it were plugged into a PC. Why does their listing feel the need to show a screen shot of GPUZ to prove the card is actually a RX 580....not like we have any idea what card was actually plugged in when they made the screen shot so it's really pointless to even show it. No reputable brand would feel the need to post such screenshot. There is a lot of shady stuff like that in the GPU market out there so it's buyer beware (particularity when they are some unknown Asian vendor associated with Ali Express). You can actually put in an even more powerful GPU. PCIe is backwards compatible, any newer GPU will install fine (if they fit and you have a solution to power it if it needs more than a single 8-pin). But RX 580 is more than fine for your emulation goals. I have one OWC disk and it's still going OK. It's great your system has all four drive sleds still. Lot of them end up going missing or broken. However, Apple only assumed users would put in 3.5" HDDs of that time period. You need a special adapter bracket to mount a 2.5" disk to those existing drive sleds. Or there are different sleds you can buy all together. OWC being Mac-centric has these parts. I got a couple of their adapter brackets and those worked out fine. Also important to know, if you want to put in a more modern and higher capacity HDD the mounting holes on disks have had their standard position change since 2009. Those disks if I recall right need a new drive sled with mounting points positioned correctly....I don't recall there being an adapter bracket solution for newer HDDs. This part will also be available through certainly OWC and likely other various vendors on Amazon and E-bay and the like. Sorry I completely forgot about this at the start but this means there is another little bit of cost to add. They were about $10 I think for the 2.5" adapters. The modern 3.5" sled were maybe $15 or $20 because they are built just like the original Mac Pro sleds (metal rather than the adapter brackets are plastic), but have the original and the newer mounting points RAM kits looks fine. What I meant about upgrading to more RAM is pointless is on whatever system would be used for playing games. You won't use even the 16GB playing up to Playstation games. Hell, I don't think I've even seen modern games use over 16GB....maybe stuff like the new FF7 remake just barely does.....but my point being the game system has plenty of RAM with 16GB. If you use the 2nd system for what sounds like a NAS you likely don't need 32GB either but I'm not so knowledgeable in this area. I think it would depend on how much it is used, ie is it going to be a single system connecting to it just playing 1 movie file at a time, or will there be like 6 devices connected each doing multiple things simultaneously. More devices connected at once and more stuff going on at once would benefit from more RAM for a NAS....I think lol. Ahh, actually.....recall back to me mentioning these systems are triple channel memory. So they work at their most efficient with only 3 DIMMS installed. So if you do need a new kit of RAM I actually recommend to either get three 8GB DIMMS for 24GB total, or three 16GB DIMMS for 48GB total.....I would assume the 24GB option would be plenty for your use case, but go to the next step for 48GB if you want to. When you install a 4th DIMM they still run at rated speed but they all cannot work as efficient between them, one DIMM is not part of the triple channel configuration.....details more than that go above my head. Most consumer platforms are dual channel, hence why getting two or four DIMMS is optimal but installing only one or three would be consider suboptimal. Installing four into these Mac Pros is suboptimal. Only use 4 DIMMS unless you NEED that AMOUNT of RAM. ie I need 64GB and only way to get that is to install four 16GB DIMMS. Since you don't need that much, it's best to have them run as efficient as possible by using only 3 slots. I see there are 4 DIMMS in your picture, and that is OK. It's not detrimental to performance, just slightly suboptimal. Just saying that in case you think you need to change it around due to my above advice. Assuming that is four 4GB DIMMS for 16GB for the game system, that is totally fine! Now if the 2nd system has no RAM and you need to get a new kit, then that is where I recommend getting the most optimized kit possible, following that above RAM advice.

ah ok I was wondering where you got that info from as it looked copy/paste. DXDiag will list out hyper threaded cores. So an "8 core" CPU in this case is really a 4 core CPU with hyper threading, a hyper threaded core per each physical core. So I think you got a single CPU system, which makes the upgrade adventure much more palatable to anyone who doesn't want to get their hands dirty doing stuff like needing to delid a CPU. If you want to verify that pop open the side panel and take a look at the CPU tray in the bottom of the case. Single CPU system has one massive heatsink on it. While the dual CPU systems have two slightly smaller heatsinks. You'll also notice another bank of 4 DIMM slots on a dual CPU tray. Here's a pic that shows them side by side. Fun fact, these trays can be interchanged between any 2009 4,1 Mac Pro. Turn a single CPU system into a dual CPU system or vise versa. Apple actually did a great job with the modularity of these systems. CPU upgrade can be done in ~20 mins. It's really not much more than pulling out the CPU tray, remove heat sink, exchange CPU and put it back together. This upgrade has been done by tens of thousands of enthusiasts. so you can def find lots of youtube videos going over it and lots of posts on macrumors forums, specifically the Mac Pro sub forum. if you want to get into nitty gritty details to see if you're comfortable with the process before you buy anything you should check that stuff out.

I also have a 2009 Mac Pro, still all hooked up and ready to go as it's my backup audio workstation! I also played modern games on it until I built my current Z390 system which is my daily driver now. I had up to a RX 5700 XT in there for a bit, but it was also obvious I was CPU bottle necked for some games like Assassins' Creed Odyssey I was playing at the time. I would have been playing at 1080p and medium settings to get decent 60 FPS. So I think that should answer the question about if putting in better GPU helps.....I also have X5690 CPU in there which is 2 more cores and faster clock. You can and should upgrade the CPU. You can get X5690 CPUs (6 core 3.46GHz) the best CPU for that socket for $50 now-a-days on E-bay. They are triple channel systems (yet have 4 DIMM slots per CPU socket) but emulation, especially at this level, is not exactly super RAM limited here. So whatever combo you got for that 16GB of RAM is plenty for emulation. Adding more RAM is pointless and a waste of money. Please tell me it's a single socket system? Those CPUs can be changed out by anyone who has the tool to do it, which is a long allen key and some thermal paste. The heat sinks on these guys are huge and the screws are deep down in holes that can only be reached by a rather long allen key. The single CPU socket systems used the Xeons as normal, ie, they still have the IHS (Integrated Head Spreader) on them. I'm a little worried you got a dual socket system because the W3520 is only 4 core CPU, yet you list your specs as a 8 core system?! Hopefully you just meant it's got 8 hyper threaded cores.... For whatever genius reasons Apple made the dual socket versions of the 2009 (4,1) Mac Pros use CPUs without a IHS and had the heat sink direct to the die. This makes them a little different to deal with as you would need to buy X5690's that doesn't have the IHS on them, or take the route that lots of us enthusiasts did and remove it yourself (delid the CPU's IHS). This was a bizarre choice by Apple, in the 2010 (5,1) Mac Pro's they went back to using the Xeons with IHS on the dual socket systems. The GT 120 is what came with the system base model, and was really only meant for driving displays. It's terrible for playing games, even when it was new in 2009. You can play 2D systems OK but you will mostly have a mediocre time with Playstation 3D era. You can easily plop in a better GPU like a RX 580 8GB model which would have enough horse power for those 3D titles. You would need a dual mini-6pin to standard 8-pin PCIe cable to power this card. You need a cable to combine the two mini 6pins ports into an 8pin to give that card proper power. These are easy to find on Amazon for less than $10 (google "dual mini 6pin to 8pin Mac pro") So Mac Pro would be like $200 investment. New CPU (~$50), new GPU (~$100), cable to power new GPU (~$10), SSD $25-50 for like a 500GB SSD for the boot drive and put the front end on a SSD. ROMS can go on a HDD by comparison if you cannot get, or already have, a large enough SSD If you're on a budget and have your expectations in check, the Mac Pro is a usable system with the upgrades. But it's gonna feel like a decade plus old machine if you don't do these upgrades. I see you already have Windows 10 installed, but I want to mention, I hope you're up to speed on how to install Windows? Make sure you create the install media with a dual layer DVD and DO NOT create it via USB thumb drive. There was a discovery several years ago that installing Windows in it's EFI format which is how it defaults to through USB has the possibility of bricking your Mac Pro's firmware through installing multiple Windows Secure Boot Certificates. Installing through a DVD will default to legacy/CSM format and will not install multiple certificates. Keep that in mind if you ever have to reinstall Windows on this Mac Pro! With all that said, I would personally either upgrade the Mac Pro, or get a pre-built mini-PC. I think you're investment in building a new DIY PC with parts as old as you listed is a terrible choice for the cost and time you will put in. If you want to tinker, keep tinkering with the Mac Pro or get something that will be "turn key" like a mini-PC here's why I would avoid all those parts you listed..... 64GB of RAM is way too much, you can save some $ and buy less GT 730 is a poor choice. As I point out a RX 580 8GB would be a much more powerful card, for just another $20 for $100 total. The NVMe disk with that mother board might work as you think. I have doubts it would work as a boot disk. (NVMe was at it's infancy when these CPU's chipsets were new - mother board might be too old to use it as a boot disk) So point being NVMe disk is overkill for storing ROMs and stuff like that. Better to get a standard 2.5" SATA III SSD that is larger size that can be used for both the boot disk and large enough to store all your games. Thats price dependent though, you might be able to find a NVMe disk that is same cost as 2.5" disk or just a little more expensive. If cost isn't an issue, I understand why NVMe is preferred, but it is still overkill for the use case. Personally I wouldn't run anything on HDD's today, I only use them for backups or long term storage. Costs of SSD's has come down so much in recent years is my reasoning to justifying that. I also like having less noise, SSD's make no noise compared to a HDD CPU comparison...upgrading to the best Xeon is just a little better than buying the old 2nd gen i7 https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Xeon-X5690-vs-Intel-Core-i7-2600K/m16752vs621 GPU comparison....not even close lmao RX 580 over 1000% better! (this is from TPU's GPU database) And user benchmark has same data on that GPU comparison, RX 580 >>>>> GT 730 https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GeForce-GT-730-vs-AMD-RX-580/m12582vs3923

it's going to be called what the core's file name is....the file name you see in Windows Explorer. what you see in Retroarch's core download menu are like, nicknames (for a lack of a better term to use here). you can get yourself familiar with the file name by finding the cores in your \Retroarch\cores folder what you see in the drop down menu in LaunchBox is the actual core's file name. hence why you need to know what it is as they don't all necessarily match up exactly with their "nickname" displayed in Retroarch's core download menu like what Retro808 is pointing out.

not that I'm aware of, that made me want to ask if you did some editing with the thought if you did edit it you likely made a mistake somewhere. do you still have the zip file or whatever form the original theme file downloaded in? I would rename the current Colorful theme folder (for ex: Colorful OLD) then stick a fresh version of the Colorful theme into your theme folder and make sure the hardware set device images work before you edit anything. It seems pretty odd you would just have a single set of images not display correctly. It really should work fine right away from the start

I thought they were talking about the clear logos too at first....but this theme has images to the left hand side that are "device" images and they are saying they aren't showing at all. took me a min to piece their post together. but just now I see they posted in the themes thread and they are obviously editing it. extrapolating that, I would think this user shot themselves in the foot, *pew pew* these images come up by default.

check again on that documentation is lacking thought The "device" images DO show up by default. No one has to do any editing or moving images around to get those to display. The theme works out of the box with no user intervention. Did you try and edit the theme yourself?

Here is some example of using xinput library with AHK in order to work with any xinput controller regardless of any script owned window being in focus. You need a few things to make this work. First is the xinput library. For anyone wondering why I keep calling this a library it's just an AHK term for describing a script that typically doesn't do anything by itself, but using a supplement script calling to the functions in the "library" script. The 2nd thing is this supplement script that has all the meat and potatoes part, where you code this button does this and that joystick does that sort of stuff. Now what I've got to show here is something that will basically make your controller work like a mouse. What I discovered is if you put the logic for mouse movement and checking ALL the buttons into the same script, it seems AHK genuinely does not run fast enough to make the mouse movement work well while doing all the additional checks. AHK is not multi-threaded. So a way to make pseudo multi-threaded AHK is to launch multiple scripts simultaneously. So I have one script dedicated to using the left joystick as controlling the mouse (this makes it feel as smooth as possible), and a separate script dedicated to all the buttons. I then created a third script to launch these two meat and potatoes scripts....so in total, I got four scripts here to do this. The latest xinput library will use xinput1_4.dll but will fall back to xinput1_3.dll if you're on an older OS like Windows 7. Please note I did not create any of this specific xinput.ahk library script. All credit for the xinput library goes to the author Lexikos Name this script below as xinput.ahk This is the script for just manipulating the left joystick and it will control your mouse cursor Name this script as xinput remap mouse only.ahk This is the script for everything else on the controller Name this script as xinput remap.ahk This is the script to launch this stuff simultaneously. You could alternatively just open them both manually and not use this last script. Name this script as xinput remap launcher.ahk Run, xinput remap mouse only.ahk Run, xinput remap.ahk Put all of these scripts into the SAME FOLDER and then run xinput remap launcher.ahk to play around with this script. Alternatively don't use the last script and just manually run xinput remap.ahk and xinput remap mouse only.ahk. Comments are all over the script to describe what is going on but here is a list of that for understanding. Left joystick = will act like your mouse *Take note if you hold the right trigger it will change from a "slow" mouse movement speed to a "fast" mouse movement speed A button = left mouse click B button = right mouse click X button = double left mouse click Y button = make your controller rumble for 2 seconds D-pad directions all are coordinated to the keyboard arrow keys *Take note if you hold the right trigger it will change from only allowing 1 step per D-pad push to what will mimic "turbo fire" or how keyboards repeat keys when held down *Take note if you hold the left trigger it will change the UP and DOWN D-pad buttons into the Page Up and Page Down keys respectively Right joystick up/down = rolling the mouse wheel up/down respectively The following buttons don't really do anything specific, so I just made them a bunch of various SoundBeep frequencies. Guide button Start button Back/View button Left and Right bumpers Left and Right joystick clicks Right joystick Left and Right You can terminate the script by pushing SHIFT+F12 Have fun! And hope this shows some users how to make use of xinput for making your controller do unique stuff! Also thanks to JoeViking245 for helping me learn how to use this xinput library!

I noticed this has always been this emulators behavior for me regardless of whatever version I'm on, normal release or early access release. So, I see the same behavior as @oldgamer. Regarding @Mainiack's setup. "Attempt to hide console window at startup/shutdown" doesn't make sense to use because that's for emulators that create a command line window and Yuzu doesn't do that. That setting is useful for an emulator like MAME which does create a command line (console) window. Regardless, checking or unchecking that doesn't impact this behavior. The only thing I see different from mine besides that is checking "Aggressive Startup Window Hiding" and that does not make any change to this behavior for me. I do have a solution for this I've used before. You could use a script to bring the Shutdown Screen to the front and make it "AlwaysOnTop" and THEN exit the emulator. This way when it does go into a window for a split sec you don't see this happen. It will be instead hidden by the Shutdown Screen. So, with that said, I'm assuming you also use Startup and Shutdown screens or this plan falls apart. I did this trick for some other emulators in the past, but point being you can apply this same script to any other emulator that does this windowing at exit thing too. Running Script Esc:: WinSet, AlwaysOnTop, , LaunchBox Game Startup Sleep, 500 WinClose, ahk_exe {{{StartupEXE}}} Exit Script (for Pause Screen exiting) WinSet, AlwaysOnTop, , LaunchBox Game Startup Sleep, 500 WinClose, ahk_exe {{{StartupEXE}}} Take note you will still have the emulator go into a window if you exit via some other hotkey or controller binding. So if you normally use Big Box's "close active window" controller binding for example, you would still see the emulator go to window when using that. You would have to make a script with a hotkey that is triggered by whatever controller button(s) being pushed in order for that exiting method to work hiding the windowing emulator. Alternatively, you could make a controller button send escape via a remapper and that would trigger the script in the Running Script field. Here is an example of using the Guide button, double pressing it to activate the same running script, so this just makes the running script a little longer Esc:: CloseGame: WinSet, AlwaysOnTop, , LaunchBox Game Startup Sleep, 500 WinClose, ahk_exe {{{StartupEXE}}} Return vk07:: ;Xbox guide button If (A_ThisHotkey = A_PriorHotkey && A_TimeSincePriorHotkey < 300) Goto, CloseGame

Guide button chords will work 24/7 as long as Steam is running....take note, running, it does not need to be in focus for the various Guide button chords to work I think you're calling the Game Overlay the Steam Guide button overlay, default keys are SHIFT+TAB or the Guide button on controller. This only opens when a Steam game, or non-Steam game in your library is actually running. So if you want that to appear while using Big Box then you would need to add Big Box as a non-Steam game to your Steam library. This does not break SteamLauncher, or at least, I don't know why you think so? Steam to my surprise lets you run multiple games simultaneously, at least from the same system, I have not tried this across multiple systems signed into the same Steam account for instance. But my point being if you had Big Box running as a non-Steam game and then launched for ex some NES game using SteamLauncher, it by theory, should work as normal. I test this theory just now, and does seem to work as I described. I can still launch a NES game with SteamLauncher while I have an official Steam game or Big Box already running through Steam. Image here for some proof If you wanted to access Big Picture Mode there should be shortcuts for that. I don't use it but also have opened it on accident many times. From what I can tell it's by default holding down the Guide button. It also seems Steam needs to be in focus for that to work though. But, there is also a setting to make Steam come to focus with a press of the Guide button, so between using both of those settings you should be able to bring up BPM with just the Guide button. Hey Lahma, I can tell from skimming through this thread you have put in lots of blood sweat and tears into this project. Things just keep getting changed that are out of your control and you gotta find the next solution each time, it sounds, frustrating to say the least. So it honestly pains to report something isn't working right for Startup/Shutdown screens. I've really only tested with Retroarch games, cores for mainly 8bit and 16bit systems like NES, SNES, Sega Genesis and Master System. What happens is it seems the SteamLauncherProxy window yanks focus away from the emulator after a few seconds pass by, forcing me to ALT+TAB back into the emulator. I changed some setting in the plugin to delay that ("Prevent Steam Focus Stealing") but it just sort of delays the inevitable. So that's really my main gripe, it requires this extra user intervention step to get back into the emulator/game being launched by SteamLauncher. This doesn't occur if I disable the Startup Screen. The issue with Shutdown Screen is mostly cosmetic, just a bunch of flashing back and forth between the frontend, emulator, and Shutdown Screen. So doesn't require user intervention, just looks pretty bad. The reason I'm digging this plugin is due to I recently got myself familiar with using Steam Input and it just makes any and every remapper I've ever used look like a kiddie toy lol. It's so powerful what it can do! Seems only your imagination is your limit with that tool. So I would love the ability to make better use of Steam Input and this plugin allows that to happen but I'm bummed about the Startup/Shutdown screens not working quite right. Should you find the time to look into this and better yet, resolve it, you will make some stranger like me quite the happy gamer! With that said, I thought I should do a couple other systems real quick that aren't using Retroarch. I tried Cemu and Yuzu and both of these emulators suffer some issues, mostly the same way too. Neither forced me to ALT+TAB into the emulator, so that's a plus. However, it still does a bunch of flashing between emulator, Startup Screen and frontend though. And it also did that flashing of windows routine at exit of the game/emulator. The Shutdown Screen seems pretty delayed when using SteamLauncher too for any of these emulators, Retroarch, Cemu or Yuzu. Couple secs go by before it initiates, it's normally instantly. This lends to flashing back to the frontend when it should instead go directly from the game/emulator to the Shutdown Screen. So by comparison, Cemu and Yuzu work one notch better not needing to ALT+TAB but the process of windows flashing back and forth at game launch and exit is ugly looking. I understand this can be considered nitpicking, as I must give credit where it's due. Functionality of the plugin does check all the boxes and work as it's supposed to for what I've tried so far. Besides Retroarch needing the extra ALT+TAB input, this is just all ugly cosmetic issues.

it's working fine for me. I can search for entries and moderate submissions, etc. sooo yea

does this got anything to do with Intel iGPU settings? I don't recall specifics but seems like when people get funny looking images there was advice to set anti-aliasing (or some similar setting) option to either on or off because having it on auto would create the issue.....stab in the dark here from me. search found this post to clarify it for me. I couldn't remember that "nahimic" name either, but that def came to mind too when I saw this post. seems to always be connected to problems like this. issue isn't the same in this thread, but I recall it impacting others similarly search for "nahimic" finds this post - looks exactly like current users issue. so I'd follow this one's advice! update Intel iGPU drivers! or change from using iGPU to your dGPU if your system has one

thank you for checking! maybe some magic Christmas PC tech elves paid us a visit over the holiday or what lol. there were some recent Windows 10 updates but even that is quite a stretch to think that would somehow be connected to this getting fixed back to normal. I'll take the win as is since it just landed in our laps like this

the scripts I posted still work fine for some unknown magical reason because I've changed literally NOTHING since my last posts regarding the frontend or CEMU, or really anything about my PC, but "close active window" controller binding works perfectly fine again for me. I'll admit that is bizarre. for what it's worth I map it as the first button to be the start button and the second button to be the B button. for the record checking/unchecking remembering window position has nothing to do with that error. I never use it and I was able to create the same error when I was troubleshooting this last month, but it was completely, 100%, random. Having it checked now does not make the error get thrown. When it did happen to me I found no rhyme or reason why it occurred but it only occurred for me when using the close active window controller binding/hotkey. but to be clear, it was totally random, it did not happen every time close active window via controller was used. It definitely did not occur when using the keyboard. this was the reason why I posted the script to close the emulator via double clicking the guide button. it was the first workaround that came to my mind at that point in time. my running script is still the same as I posted last time, and the exit script (ie exiting via the Pause Screen) is the same thing but written appropriately for the Pause Screen Exit Script field. still works fine for me. WinClose, ahk_exe {{{StartupEXE}}} Hey @Retro808, would you mind firing up CEMU and see if closing it via the controller close active window bind misbehavior changed for you too? This is weird.....it somehow fixed itself for me lol.....I mean....this is a good problem to be having 😄

TV Series Scraper View File Thank you for checking out TV Series Scraper! This tool will give LaunchBox and Big Box users the ability to easily add TV episodes to their library. This is an AHK script written in V1 syntax and uses TMDB (The Movie Database) as its source for metadata and images Users will be required to supply their own API key from https://www.themoviedb.org/ which is 100% free of charge and only takes the time needed to sign up creating a user name, and requesting an API key from within your user profile. Within the .7z file there is a .ahk version and a .exe version. Both will operate exactly the same! If you are not familiar with setting up AHK then please use the .exe version. #WHAT IT DOES# -It will edit your PLATFORM XML file accordingly to add all data into LaunchBox and download both SEASON and EPISODE specific images -SORT TITLE will be applied in the format of "TV SERIES SXXEXX EPISODE TITLE" to organize all series episodes together in proper sequential order -SEASON specific images are saved into the platform's BOX - FRONT directory -EPISODE specific images are saved into the platforms SCREENSHOT - GAMEPLAY directory -METADATA applied will be the following: Series title (within sort title) Series genre(s) Series network(s) Sort Title (in the format of SERIES TITLE SXXEXX EPISODE TITLE) Season number (within sort title) Episode number (within sort title) Episode title Episode overview Episode air date Episode Run Time (*only if custom field was added - see notes below) #HOW TO USE# -Import your video files into your platform -Without editing these entries, close LaunchBox -Open LaunchBox again, and now BULK EDIT the entries as follows Edit the SERIES field with the TV SERIES NAME Edit the RELEASE DATE field with ANY DATE Optional but recommended Add a CUSTOM FIELD by doing the following Edit a SINGLE ENTRY Go to CUSTOM FIELDS tab Add a custom field name called "Run Time" Enter any value into the value field, for ex: "20" Custom fields only save if a value is assigned to at least a single entry Now BULK EDIT all entries again to edit the custom field "Run Time". Enter any value into the field -Close LaunchBox -Open TV Series Scraper -If this is your first launch, you must go to API KEYS tab and enter in your TMDB API KEY! -On the TMBD tab, enter the TV SERIES into TV SERIES field -Select the specific platform XML file using the BROWSE button -Then click the SEARCH button You will be prompted if the search result is correct or if you want to see the next result -Once you select a result all matching entries in your LaunchBox library will be populated into the EPISODES LIST drop down This is to review if all of your episodes are in proper sequential order -Also once a search result is selected, if the TV series has additional "episode groups" then you will be able to change EPISODE GROUP TYPE to "Alternative" and then select the EPISODE GROUP NAME of your choice -Once you are ready with your settings, click SCRAPE to begin the process! #SETTINGS & FEATURES# TMDB Tab SKIP SPECIALS checkbox will do just that. If a TV series has specials, as in, episodes that do not correlate to any particular season, these can be skipped over if the checkbox is enabled EPISODE LIST is to review if your episodes are all in proper sequential order. If they are, you are free to pick either image naming format. ENTRY TITLE, or FILE NAME. If your episodes are NOT in proper sequential order, then you should ONLY use ENTRY TITLE. If FILE NAME is used and your episodes are not in sequential order, then images will not be assigned to the proper entry! Batch File Rename Tab (see below for details) API Keys Tab Go to this tab to enter in your TMDB API key. The script will NOT function without this key! Settings Tab Search settings All of these settings will use different logic on how to match to your entries file name. Choose the one(s) that best fit your files naming scheme Each checkbox will display a tool tip to give an example of what it is using Use first search result will bypass the message prompt so the user can confirm they have the right series. Exact match only checkbox is the strictest search method and requires finding the SERIES TITLE, the SEASON AND EPISODE NUMBER, and the EPISODE NAME in your entries file name. This search method is ALWAYS enabled as the default but when this checkbox is enabled, all additional fallback search options are DISABLED Image settings ENTRY TITLE will name all images as the entries title (episode title) FILE NAME will name all images as the entries file name. Do NOT use this setting if your episode list is not completely in proper sequential order since images will not end up being named correctly Download first image found is permanently enabled. Potential improvement for future revision is to give users ability to choose additional images should they exist Additional Notes If you choose to add multiple TV series to a single platform then it is recommended to NOT use the "Season # & episode #" search option (SXXEXX). This is due to it will only need to find for ex "S09E10" in a file name and will likely result in applying metadata and images for TV series "A" to a TV series "B" entry! This is the the "loosest" search setting as it has nothing specific to the TV series title, or to the individual episode title. Going off the above note, if all your TV series are separated into their own individual platforms, then using the "Season # & episode #" search option is very reliable assuming your file names have SXXEXX in them If you are having issues with getting good matches even with various search settings then you should utilize the Batch File Renamer to get your file's names better suited! SPECIALS, as in episodes that do not correlate to any specific season, will be considered part of "season 0" and given a sort title in LaunchBox as "SERIES TITLE S00EXX EPISODE TITLE" If you want to provide SEASON SPECIFIC images rather than have them downloaded from TMDB then place your image files into the "Images To Duplicate" folder prior to scraping. Images must be named in the following format: SERIES TITLE SXX For ex: Image file name "Archer S05.png" will be applied to every episode of Archer from its fifth season #BATCH FILE RENAMER# -This tool will batch rename files to the following format: SERIES TITLE SXXEXX EPISODE TITLE -Having files named like this will guarantee good matches with even the strictest default setting of Exact match only! -This tool will only rename files on a per season basis. For ex, if a TV series has 10 seasons and you want them all renamed, you will need to run this batch file rename 10 separate times -The files in the selected directory MUST be in PROPER SEQUENTIAL ORDER! However, they can be named LITERALLY ANYTHING! -What the batch file renamer does is take the first file found and gives it the name of the first episode for the series and season you entered. It then takes the second file found and gives it the second episodes name. Then it takes the third file found and gives it the third episodes name....and so on. -To use do the following: Enter the TV SERIES into the TV SERIES field Enter the SEASON NUMBER into the SEASON NUMBER field Enter your files FILE EXTENSION into the FILE EXTENSION field Select the directory which you want to batch rename files using the BROWSE button Click the SEARCH button You will be prompted if the correct search result came up. Once the proper search result is selected you can then select an ALTERNATIVE EPISODE GROUP should you want to use one, if the series has more than just the default episode group. With all fields filled in as desired, click the RENAME button. Your files will be renamed accordingly in just seconds! -CAUTION IS ADVISED! Back up your files first! There is no undo button associated with this action should you make a mistake #GETTING TMDB API KEY# -Once you have logged into your TMDB account you can click on your user name icon in the top right corner. In the pop-up menu click on "Edit Profile". -In the left hand list click on API which will be near the bottom of the list -Here you will be able to request and retrieve your own API key #THANK YOU# @Whatscheiser worked as a beta tester for v2.0 and their feedback was critical to making the tool better! Your time and efforts are much appreciated! #EXAMPLE IMAGES# Example for use in Big Box #EXAMPLE VIDEO# Showing the setup process to import and scrape for an entire season in just a few minutes! Please note video editing took place during the scrape progress so the video could be shortened TV Series Scraper Tutorial.mp4 #SUPPORT# Please keep all questions and requests for help in the main discussion and support thread. If you are reading this, you are currently in the main discussion and support thread! Submitter skizzosjt Submitted 01/17/2024 Category Third-party Apps and Plugins  

the startup/shutdown screens are triggered by the main launching app existing and then not existing. so if a mod launcher boots up first to boot this game with said mods, and then the launcher closes then the game over screen is going to get triggered prematurely at that point. you just need to rethink your approach on how to launch it because you misunderstand how the startup and shutdown screens work. So scripting will fix this issue. In the below script insert in the full path to the 7th Heaven Launcher, and also make sure to change "FFVII.exe" to whatever the game exe file actually is if it's something different. Paste this below script into a text file and save it as something like "7thHeavenLaunchScript.ahk" Run, "D:\Full\Path\to\Launcher\7th Heaven.exe" /LAUNCH /QUIT WinWait, ahk_exe FFVII.exe WinWaitClose, ahk_exe FFVII.exe The script does this: Runs the mod launcher as normal so everything from there goes as business as usual WinWait says "Wait for this window to exist" WinWaitClose says "Wait for this window to close" and then script terminates when that window closes. If the script is used as the main exe the Shutdown screen gets triggered at the appropriate point in time, at game exit, which is due to the script terminates at game exit. So in the game entry, you need the application path to point to the copy of AHK that is included with LB, which is in ThirdParty\AutoHotkey. In the command line parameters you need to insert the full path to the script and make sure to use quotes around it

Hi Neo, I just explained this on page 56 so please go read those two posts. Make sure you read this new post here in it's entirety too. Also the two "underneath" buttons are duplicates of whatever you program them to be via the controller's program button which is also on the underside. These buttons on the bottom of the controller only are detected by any program or game if you assigned them a button, so if you never programmed them, it makes sense why no program or game detects them. They have exact same controller I do and the key issue there is due to it being an Xbox One model. But I'd bet also lending to the issue as a whole is same thing you and I mention about Joy (controller) number. I played around with an example of how to use Xbox One or Xbox Series X controller specific hotkeys, or detecting any controller input from these models without use of xinput library. Since you need an active window for GetKeyState to capture those inputs correctly, I thought maybe I make a little menu to select a few things. This is just a proof of concept script, as it does nothing practical other than demonstrate this. Recently found triple click hotkey examples, so thought I'd show an example of that here too. This one you would need to triple click on the Guide button to bring up a window. Now that a window from the script is in focus, controller specific hotkeys and GetKeyState will work for even Xbox One and Series X controllers. These two examples just will have soundbeep activate when the buttons are detected vk07:: ;Xbox Guide button SetTimer, TripleClickDetect, -200 ;run timer only once after 200ms passes due to negative symbol GuideClickCount++ If (GuideClickCount = 3) { Gui, Main:New, , HTPC Menu Gui, Main:Show, w500 h500 Goto, CheckControllerState } Return TripleClickDetect: ;this will clear the click count variable GuideClickCount := ;creating a 200ms window to detect 3 clicks Return MainGuiClose: ExitApp CheckControllerState: SetTimer, ControllerInputCheck, 16 ;timer will consistently start in 16ms intervals ControllerInputCheck: Return 2Joy6:: ;"2nd controller's Right Bumper" per Windows/AHK If (GetKeyState("2Joy5")) ;"2nd controller's Left Bumper" per Windows/AHK SoundBeep This one the difference from script above is just removing the Return after the ControllerInputCheck timer. So this works more like a normal controller state checking script rather than a hotkey. Changed the controller button used too for sake of example vk07:: ;Xbox Guide button SetTimer, TripleClickDetect, -200 ;run timer only once after 200ms passes due to negative symbol GuideClickCount++ If (GuideClickCount = 3) { Gui, Main:New, , HTPC Menu Gui, Main:Show, w500 h500 Goto, CheckControllerState } Return TripleClickDetect: ;this will clear the click count variable GuideClickCount := ;creating a 200ms window to detect 3 clicks Return MainGuiClose: ExitApp CheckControllerState: SetTimer, ControllerInputCheck, 16 ;timer will consistently start in 16ms intervals ControllerInputCheck: If (GetKeyState("2Joy1")) ;"2nd controller's A button" per Windows/AHK SoundBeep Users with Xbox One and Series X model controllers will notice the script stops detecting controller input as soon as a script window no longer has focus. Once back in focus, it works again. Unlike Xbox 360 controllers that can still have controller specific hotkeys and GetKeyState work even when a script window is not in focus. And here is more specific example of having an interface to use with a controller. Get the GUI to show by triple clicking the Guide button. Then what you can do here is use left/right on the D-Pad to select between the two buttons. You can open an instance of Notepad, or exit the script. Use the "A" button on your controller to select either of them. Note you need to be more specific with your If/Else logic like I did or else you will get "turbo fire" going on.....or you need to really reduce the timer interval/frequency but then that creates input lag. Which may be fine for some silly example like this but actual gaming use you obviously don't want more lag due to needing more X ms before detection. Without being more specific with If/Else logic, when you use the controller to open notepad several instances of notepad will open because maybe you hold the button down for 120ms but it checks every 16ms so there would be multiple fires of the send command. This same method works for using xinput library too. When I have more time I will show what I made a while ago with help from JoeViking since I think that will be helpful to community for understanding vk07:: ;Xbox Guide button SetTimer, TripleClickDetect, -200 ;run timer only once after 200ms passes due to negative symbol GuideClickCount++ If (GuideClickCount = 3) { Gui, Main:New, , HTPC Menu Gui, Main:Show, w500 h500 Gui, Main:Add, Button, x25 y25 w70 gRunNotepad, Launch Notepad Gui, Main:Add, Button, x400 y25 w70 gMainGuiClose, Exit Script Goto, CheckControllerState } Return TripleClickDetect: ;this will clear the click count variable GuideClickCount := ;creating a 200ms window to detect 3 clicks Return MainGuiClose: ExitApp RunNotepad: Run, Notepad Return CheckControllerState: SetTimer, ControllerInputCheck, 16 ;timer will consistently start in 16ms intervals ControllerInputCheck: ;Joy #, button #, POV #, per AHK's Official Controller Test Script If (GetKeyState("2Joy1")) { ;2nd controller's A button If (A_Btn_Pressed != 1) { A_Btn_Pressed := 1 Send {Enter down} } } Else If (A_Btn_Pressed = 1) { A_Btn_Pressed := 0 Send {Enter up} } If (GetKeyState("2JoyPOV") = 9000) { ;2nd controller's Right D-Pad button If (DPad_Right_Pressed != 1 ) { DPad_Right_Pressed := 1 Send {Right down} } } Else If (DPad_Right_Pressed = 1) { DPad_Right_Pressed := 0 Send {Right up} } If (GetKeyState("2JoyPOV") = 27000) { ;2nd controller's Left D-Pad button If (DPad_Left_Pressed != 1 ) { DPad_Left_Pressed := 1 Send {Left down} } } Else If (DPad_Left_Pressed = 1) { DPad_Left_Pressed := 0 Send {Left up} } Note from AHK's docs seems controllers can have different POV values which is the D-pad. Since I know Neo has same controller as I used in this example I know it will work for them but for others left/right might have different values and you would have to find that out through AHK's Controller Test Script https://www.autohotkey.com/docs/v1/misc/RemapController.htm Note for all these scripts I shared in this post just now. Unless your controller comes up as #2, users need to change the Joy (controller) number accordingly per Windows and therefore AHK's Controller Test Script https://www.autohotkey.com/docs/v1/scripts/index.htm#ControllerTest

I learned some more today about controller enumeration numbers. the device list, and the control panel in Windows means literally nothing for AHK detecting/enumerating controllers. the way things looked in my last post sure made it seem like that, but as I tested the theory, it was proven false. I removed all three existing controllers from my device list. restarted my PC twice. plugged in my wired controller that was previously coming up as #2 and......it's still #2 per AHK scripts! even weirder is I never bothered to check control panel until today and there were even more "previous" controllers in there.....I don't actually own 7 controllers lmao but there were a bunch of greyed out instances of the same controller in there. I went down a rabbit hole of removing all these instances and even doing that didn't change stuff. this same controller, the only one in the device list, the only one in the control panel, the only one plugged into the PC, is still detected as "2Joy" per Windows and therefore AHK. did some forum searching and found this. seems AHK does not forget these assignments due to it's actually how Windows assigns/remembers them. unlike xinput which works more like how us normal humans think. ie if controller "A" is #1 and controller "B" is #2.....if both are unplugged and then "B" is plugged back in it comes back instead as #1. per Windows and therefore AHK it doesn't work like that, it always remembers controller "B" is going to be controller #2 and it will be controller #2 even if it's the only controller plugged into your system and you have no other controllers in device list or control panel https://www.autohotkey.com/board/topic/91621-ahk-detects-ghost-joystick-controllers/ using the shoulder buttons in either sequence, 5 > 6 or 6 > 5 work for me. to be clear, I swapped the numbers around in the script to check both sequences work as long as the script is written as so.

you don't have to do it by game. you could instead go into configure options > general inputs > player X controls and change the setting there on a global scale.

likely "overlays" (what Retroarch calls bezels) were turned off in Retroarch. The frontend should not have an impact on whether bezels show unless your command line arguments are loading up some alternative config file that would otherwise tell overlays to be off. Path to overlay settings in Retroarch are: Settings > On-Screen Display > On-Screen Overlay make sure that the first option Display Overlay is set to ON Hopefully that is all you need to do.

why is the UAC prompt coming up in the first place? that only comes up when an executable is launched with admin privileges so sounds like you have it setup to always launch in admin mode then, so you should def change that! also just because you click yes (or no) it does not remember this like some saved setting, the prompt happens every time any executable is launched with admin privileges and that is expected behavior of the UAC prompt. which is why as frontend users we don't want to run stuff in admin mode if you want clean launches. don't be "that guy" and adjust UAC settings to never come up, it will likely bite you in the rear in the future when some program does something you didn't want it to because it could run with admin privileges unchecked make sure this is not checked that or each TP game you have would possibly have that setting checked. you would have to go to each game's exe and make sure same setting is not checked.

Hi @stevaside that can be normal behavior for using a controller joystick in place of a mouse or light gun (which just mimics a mouse) I think you can make these adjustments in MAME. Fired up T2 and checked it's options, likely you need to have your controller work like the keyboard inputs instead. Notice how those are in the INC and DEC lines (short for increment and decrement, ie like a +/- kinda movement) Try using your keyboard arrow keys and notice how they move to the direction you press but don't bounce back, that sounds like the behavior you want. So I would try mapping your analog stick to those lines And a quick test says this is the way to do it. Take note that the Y-axis is inverted with INC being down and DEC being up they might have slightly different names in other MAME games but they should have the INC/DEC abbreviation at the end. Like Time Crisis was another one I checked I'm not sure off the top of my head how to do that in TP. I'd have to get re-familiar with it be any help

I just came to a eureka moment. I've been going nuts over why it seems everyone but me can use xinput controllers as a hotkey WITHOUT using the xinput library (small exception is any xinput controller can use the Guide button as a hotkey without use of xinput library, it must be called using vk07 as the hotkey). I just realized it seems to keep putting my controllers as higher numbers in the "XJoyY" iteration, with X being joystick (controller) number and Y being the specific button. For ex, I have a single Xbox 360 controller plugged into my PC just now, no other controllers are plugged in and I've done restarts too, and it comes up as controller #3 in AHK's controller test script. https://www.autohotkey.com/docs/v1/scripts/index.htm#ControllerTest so I need to use 3Joy1 if I wanted to have the A button trigger something as an example. I never noticed that little number in the text at top of the script. Just today I realize it's referring to the enumeration order of the controller! Img for reference. Also SUPER important part which I already knew of and THOUGHT was my main issue is this ONLY WORKS WITH AN XBOX 360 CONTROLLER. I normally use a wired Xbox One controller or wireless Xbox Series X controller when playing games. USING Joy1 or 1Joy1 TYPE HOTKEYS WITH XINPUT CONTROLLERS NEWER THAN XBOX 360 WILL NOT WORK. (unless one of the scripts windows is the active window to detect said inputs, but that makes any script useless in any real-world use case scenario). I just never understood why I couldn't get it to work even with my Xbox 360 controllers. Why I struggled with that is because I totally spaced out on the enumeration order until today, had I paid attention to that I wouldn't have been banging my head on the wall wondering why I cannot get xinput controller hotkeys to work on a Xbox 360 controller. I already understood why it doesn't work on my newer controllers, but I felt like I was missing something stupid simple for Xbox 360 controllers, and I obviously did miss something stupid simple lol This is why if you have a Xbox One or Xbox Series X style controller you cannot call a hotkey with JoyY or XJoyY (X being controller number and Y being specific button) and instead need to resort to using the xinput library. If you don't put a number prior to Joy it implies it's the first controller, ie JoyY using previous examples above https://www.autohotkey.com/docs/v1/misc/RemapController.htm I think I know why it enumerates at # 3 now too. Under Bluetooth settings I can see a Xbox One wireless controller is still in the list, and it's #1 when used in AHK scripts. It just say it's "paired" in the device list rather than connected which makes sense, I haven't used that controller on this workstation PC for a long time I must have just left it in device list should I ever want to use it again. That way I wouldn't need to put it through another setup. I know that only takes like 30 secs but that was my thought process for leaving it - this obviously bit me in the rear though lol because I never thought to try 2Joy1 and only ever tried Joy1 or 1Joy1 (DOH!) My wired Xbox One controller (which is what I use when I do play games on this workstation PC) comes up at controller #2 and is also in the list. I just today plugged in the Xbox 360 wired controller, it was first time I plugged that in in a long time and wasn't in the device list so needed to be setup. So it goes to next available number, that being #3. Light bulb goes off at this point 💡 - Img for reference So I reckon people who never had an issue with using xinput buttons as a hotkey are using Xbox 360 controllers and they do not have multiple controllers in their device list. If you have multiple controllers in there, you need to be aware of what the controller number is according to AHK. You can try entering the next higher number until you find it or better yet, use their test script to know exactly what # it is. I've been making use of the xinput library for my newer controllers. Which JoeViking did a great job helping me learn about a while back! If you scan back through this thread you should find those posts...somewhere in this enormous thread Might be an error in that script btw. I think it needs braces or it's going to send esc when the first button is pushed without waiting for the 2nd button. 1Joy10:: If GetKeyState("Joy9") { SendLevel, 1 Send, {Esc} }