Zombeaver

Those are some good ideas! I'll consider doing those. I guess the only issue with a "top" logo is that obviously not everybody's going to agree on what's "top" for a platform haha; which will be relevant to the images I use. Granted, that's kindof an issue already with the logos I make (I used Suikoden II above because I love it, but it's not necessarily considered "iconic" overall), but still.

We had a C64 when I was a kid and a 1541 floppy drive - those disks were 170kb We never had a datasette drive but I think those were about 100kb per-side. We had a few cartridges but generally the Epyx Fast Load cartridge remained plugged in because most of our stuff was on floppy.

Yeah, that's true. I recently tried out @Nyny77's bezel overlays and I really liked them but when I discovered that there wasn't a vertical one for MAME I figured "Eh, I'll just make one of my own." and that led to "Well maybe I'll make a few more." and "Maybe I'll start making some for other systems..." The handheld ones (that actually show the device as the border + appropriate shader) that come with RA are already exactly what I want for those systems so I probably won't be doing any of those. Still early days at this point but I've been having fun working on them (and now the controller ones too). I use Photoshop.

I dig it. I've been making mine with backgrounds but doing them with transparency might be cool too.

It should create them on its own but it's not going to hurt anything to make them manually. Try restarting LB and/or starting BB and see if it makes them.

Derp... default overlay opacity is 0.70... You can change it to 1.00 and it's perfect. Woot!

Well hot damn, this worked like a charm! I've been in the process of making my own set of bezel overlays recently anyway, so when I saw this I figured I'd give it a go. The only issue is that the overlay is slightly transparent where the game is being displayed - it's still readable though. I wonder if there's a way to force it to be completely opaque...

A couple of thoughts on platform categories in Big Box: -There isn't any visual transition between platform categories and their sub-platforms - it's kindof jarring. If you switch between platforms and playlists there's a nice fade that looks fine but from platform categories to platforms it's just instant. -There isn't a mappable function for switching to platform categories. Currently I have buttons assigned to switch to platforms and switch to playlists - I'd like to replace my assignment for platforms to platform categories but there doesn't appear to be a way to do this at the moment.

Here some additional platform category clear logos if anyone's interested:

It doesn't actually match based on filename - it matches based on checksum. So the files themselves can actually named anything so long as the checksum matches; this means that renaming your files isn't going to fix your issue. Have you tried looking up the individual games that aren't appearing on OpenRetro to see if they're there and "published"? Worst case scenario you could create custom configs for them as I go over in the video.

I didn't say anything to the contrary. It was a method of displaying a wider range of colors than was ordinarily possible with the hardware due to color limitations. His post didn't ask for it to "look crisp", the entire point of the post was to make it look authentic, which, in this case, requires dithering. Nothing says anybody has to do this of course, but if you want it to look like the original, 32-bit color depth most assuredly ain't the way. The "nice grainy/noise" look that he's referring to is the direct result of dithering - that's what dithering is doing essentially - adding grain to gradate the colors. And I agree with the sentiment - I actually *like* the way the dithering "artifacts" affect the image. I think it adds a certain amount of (positive) character to the image.

It does a different type of break depending on whether you just press enter: (like this) Or if you hold shift and press enter: (like this)

Happy to help! Have fun! If you have any other issues you can post them in the thread I made for that tutorial:

I have the following: 3DO Amiga Arcade (which I use as a catchall for everything that isn't CPS-1, CPS-2, Neo Geo, Atomiswave, Naomi, Model 2, and TTX - including CPS-3 because I didn't see the point in having an entire platform for 6 games) Atari 8-bit (which is a custom platform for Atari 800 + Atari XEGS because I don't know why these are in separate platforms in the DB - yes the hardware itself was slightly different but the games themselves are literally the same, XEGS packaging was just rebranding; it would be like having separate platforms for Playstation and PSOne) Atari 2600 Atari 7800 Atari ST Atomiswave Capcom CPS-1 Capcom CPS-2 Classic PC (this is a custom platform I made for post-DOS PC games that are at least 10 years old - Thief, Gothic 2, Shogo: Mobile Armor Division, etc. I felt weird lumping these games in with modern PC stuff) Commodore 64 MS-DOS Mugen Neo Geo Nintendo 64 Nintendo DS Nintendo Entertainment System Nintendo Game Boy Nintendo Game Boy Advance Nintendo Game Boy Color Nintendo Gamecube ScummVM Sega CD Sega Dreamcast Sega Genesis Sega Master System Sega Model 2 Sega Naomi Sega Saturn Sharp X68000 Sony Playstation Sony Playstation 2 Sony PSP Super Nintendo (SNES) Taito Type X TurboGrafx-16 TurboGrafx-CD Windows (this is a combination of Steam and GOG games that I've manually imported - I don't have a separate Steam platform because doing the built-in Steam import just dumps your entire catalog of owned Steam games regardless of whether or not they're installed)

Well there's nothing saying you have to use shaders - the overrides don't actually have anything to do with shaders; although one is specified in the base core config - it's CRT-Hyllian-Multipass - you can remove it from the config though. The only other shaders that are specified in the overrides are for instances where games are using interlaced 480i content (typically fighting games such as Tekken 3) where I've set them up to use a custom deinterlacing shader that I included. If you don't like CRT shaders you could try something like Xbrz which does some smoothing. Shaders are a totally personal/subjective thing. There's a github repo that shows preview images of most of the shaders here. Just pick a category and then click on a specific shader and it'll show you what it looks like on a test image. As far as dithering goes though, like I said I'm a Software Renderer + Native Resolution + Dithering Enabled guy. When you actually turn dithering off/on and look for its effect in game - it's actually used in a *lot* of games to create smoother gradients and a wider range of colors. If you really want to upscale the only way to do it and maintain the dithering is to use 32-bit color depth and a hardware renderer - as I said though that has it's own set of issues, namely with bits of weirdness and/or just outright broken visuals depending on the game.

No problem! If you haven't seen the video at all I'd recommend watching the whole thing; that particular section just addresses your specific question. I would also encourage you to try out WHDLoad format games rather than individual floppy image format - it's simpler, more convenient, and you'll have significantly faster load times.

A man after my own heart! I don't even upscale at all. I run them at native resolution, and use CRT shaders. Honestly if you really want a true "authentic" feeling you should leave it at native resolution, use the software renderer, and have dithering enabled. Alternately you can use a hardware renderer, use 32-bit color depth, and disable dithering to approximate the same thing - hardware renderers can be hit and miss though in terms of accuracy and/or bugs. I use the Mednafen PSX HW core in RA and these settings are specified in the "core options". There are actually a lot more games that make use of dithering than you probably think - it's just that most of them do so in less obvious ways than Silent Hill. If you use a software renderer at native resolution you will, by and large, want dithering enabled for nearly everything. Another thread that may be of interest to you is this one, where I've created overrides for about 400 PSX games for AR/cropping and controller type assignment:

It doesn't "auto-load" if you're using a multi-disk floppy format (like ADF). You have to first specifying the disks in the swapper (if you scan them into your FS-UAE library and they're recognized, the swapper should populate automatically for them, if not you'll have to add them manually) and then when you're in-game pull up the UI, go to "removable media", and change the disk. I go over how to do this at 37:30 in the video. It should be noted that a few WHDLoad games will actually prompt you to change the disk, but for those you can just press the fire button when the prompt appears and it should continue as normal.

That's fine, just throwin' stuff out there for people

Been doing some noodlin'

Start Atari800.exe Press F1 Go to Display Settings Go to Video Mode Settings This is what I'm using: I also use a custom palette (in Display Settings) but we can get back to that later. Press Esc twice to get back to the main options screen Go to Emulator Configuration Select "Save Configuration File" You can also enable "Save Configuration File On Exit" but I recommend leaving this off in case you mess something up while changing settings - it won't be saved until you manually save it. It also keeps you from having cartridges or disk images remaining "inserted" after exiting the emulator. Pres Esc to get back to the main options screen Select "Run Atari Program" Navigate to your rom and press enter If you try to load a cartridge format rom it will ask you to select the cartridge type. This varies by game but "Standard 16 KB cartridge" is what it will be most of the time. F2 = Option F3 = Select F4 = Start F12 = Warp (fast forward) F9 = Exit (I have these bound to buttons on my controller via AHK but again we can get back to that later) If you're using an Xinput controller (I use a wireless 360 controller) it should be detected automatically and the left joystick should control the joystick in game and A (on a 360 controller) = fire button. Atari800 works fine via LB too but we need to verify that you can get stuff working outside of that first.