SentaiBrad

The software that I shown off in the compression tutorial isn't batch either. I showed off batch tools where they were available with the methods that I use, which I think are the best options.

Because that's a setting that theme has set. There are some settings you can do from the menu, but most Theme settings aren't changeable. A lot of settings like that are set by the theme and theme creator, which is the point of themes.

That would make a little sense if the image quality selector is at 100%. By reducing it you're simply removing a lot of image information and thus less RAM per image (and even cache disk space potentially) is needed. I would say though, that the Database should still be kept with it's high quality images, though I would be interested in getting a batch method working. So for example, it reads the resolution of the images, if it's over a certain specification, it goes ok, and reduces by a percentage amount and keeps aspect ratio. That's the only problem with doing something like that, it could be very destructive.

Ah, if it's in the tutorial for a theme to be made with it sure. I know default didn't have gif support though. I didn't realize it was in there. Edit: Apparently @Jason Carr did add this and told no one. So hopefully he can help out, or if another theme creator knows they can help. Sorry about that.

I'm certain that GIFS are not supported in Big Box, unless Jason changed something.

Well, they're not using any software right now as far as I can tell, they're using the default wireless stuff, but even then, Input Mapper works totally fine. It's worked great for a long time now. Input Mapper is also not a fork of that software at all, it's a continuation from another piece of software that came early on after the PS4 controller came out, but was discontinued.

Yea, keep kicking ass. You're certainly on a much more advanced path than a lot of people 4 times your age. If making videos is something you like doing, make sure to keep doing it, keep practicing, keep an open mind, keep your morals high, and you'll go far in video production.

Set up the view change key in the settings and change views to something different or open the Big Box menu and select the view for all games. That should help.

For an Arcade cab, I myself am very selective about it. I personally wouldn't go higher than any system with 6 buttons on it's controller (minus start and select, but that depends on your cab). I would do computer titles if they can use simplified controls. So DOS Games that have controller support, or Amiga games that can use the Amiga controller stuff I would put on there, but it'd be a long project. If there is a game that could play ok that doesn't have controller mappings, but uses the same amount or less buttons than your cab has, then I don't see why they couldn't work.. except for point and click adventures.

You're the first person I've really seen mention this, so I wonder if it's something very specific. Where are your games located? Are they on an external hard drive or a hard drive that has slower seek time? I wonder if your hard drive is taking it's time to boot up for access. It would make sense then that when you close RetroArch and load a new game that it doesn't need to essentially turn back on because it's already in "operation" mode. Sometimes if the first game starts right away you could have been accessing it or using something from it first.

Yea, I would agree with you here, changing the resolution to a slightly smaller resolution for the same of maybe saving 500kb is rather dumb. There could have been another reason, or they saw the smaller one being of better quality, who knows. Without seeing them myself, and just going on them being smaller for the sake of being smaller, I probably would have just declined it myself.

Well, bigger doesn't necessarily mean better when it comes to images. If there was a sharper, more color correct image, I would take that over a blurry or off larger picture. Even assume both images are just as sharp technically, but the smaller image has better colors or was scanned in better inherently, I'd rather take that than an off larger image. The best case scenario is to have a larger sized image, with good color, it's sharp and represents the original as best as it can. Sometimes people also don't think, and upload what ever they feel like, which happens. So it is a bit of a judgement call on the part of the moderators, but bigger doesn't always mean better. Do you have any examples of where an image got smaller and worse where the image that it replaced was larger and a good image? I don't get what you mean about something being oversized (in what context specifically) or that dual monitor users don't like larger images? I would also agree that the database is a preservation tool in the long run as well, but the better image should be available for a game. Unless it's super tiny, where it completely defeats the purpose and it would get distorted or blurry when put in to LB or BB, I don't think going from a larger image to a smaller image needs to be a bad thing, if there is a good quality difference. There really isn't much in the Guidelines about front and back box art for two main reasons, Quality is very subjective to a user or some people can't see color differences too well, or a game simply doesn't have any good quality box art out there. If a game is super obscure and only had it's box art scanned once, and it's a bit blurry or off color, we're gonna take it if there's nothing else available. There was a user a while back who was uploading over sharpened images (or that's what I remember it as), and several moderators, including myself, had agreed they didn't look any better than the existing art. So it's all a bit subjective. If bad artwork gets in, and it can be replaced, I would hope that someone see's it and updates it.

You can just use regular MAME. RetroArch works, but I think MAME Standalone is better. Watch the tutorial, and ignore the older version numbers. Plug in the new version stuff, and the Lightspeed stuff is no longer applicable. The rest should be fine.

For PS4 controllers I installed Input Mapper, and it uses xinput drivers, or at least the PC thinks it is. Some PC games when it's plugged in will automatically see the controller too because of that. Otherwise, yea it should automatically bind the controls.

Ah, I missed that.

What do you mean? Game Counts and Screenshots are visible, Screenshots from the sidebar, so I am lost as to exactly what you mean.

Right, but that's not importing games through the API. I think it's using the API to sort tags only, that's a bit different. Usually the biggest question though is if we can only import installed games, and the answer is usually no because of the limitations of the API. There is more we can certainly try and do, like better metadata grabbing and filtering as well.

We're actually limited by their API, so we can really only do what it lets us. There may be some stuff that we can do after the list is imported, but for example we can't import only games you have installed, every game must be added.

I also don't have every system, I've also pruned out a lot from sets, like most sports games. Also, debating on importing Steam games to get the most accurate amount.

E-mail jason@unbrokensoftware.com and he'll get you squared away!

So as far as my collection goes, all of my games, patches and emulators take up 5.6TB. I can break it down per console or per company (like Nintendo and Sega) if you all are curious. I also have my GameCube and Wii games on it's own hard drive for my modded Wii U. I also have a ton of Xbox games as well in the same location for my modded Xbox. My library is just over 29k games, and I am working on getting every other system in as well.

Nothing has really changed since last March, which is usually the case with most tutorials. RetroArch is a little obtuse with remapping controls. I had issues with my RetroLink controller as well. Doing some trial and error should help. If I recall @lordmonkus knows what a lot of those settings mean. They're not exactly straight forward in what the they mean. Also, I have covered almost every major system https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL6pTDaHeAz-WMcNURVPU-1xLN_TVpT3FB Use Ctrl + F and type in PS1, and PS2.

I'm sure you can. The tutorial will help walk you through it if you need more help. However, if Nestopia standalone is working and you don't think you need RA, then stick with whats working for now. We just all like RA because we think it's one of the better emulators out there, but by no means do you have to listen us.

There are several threads on the forums about performance, and we all go through several different plans of attack, try searching one of them up. In short though, you should try disabling any active scanning software you have. like ram cleaners, av software, firewalls. You should be up-to-date with all of your drivers, IOBit's Driver Booster will help a ton. Making sure your PC is cleaned and operating well will help as well. IOBit Advanced System Care is my favorite, it does lots of cool stuff and can help make sure your PC is clean. These are the settings that I run every few days to clean up: https://i.imgur.com/s54zX5G.png When running on a system for the first time, and every few months, I also run System Optimization, Vulnerability Fix and Internet Boost. There are processes that you can also disable to help make a lean and mean Windows 10 install. There are lists out there for safe processes to disable if you're curious. Also, LB being on an SSD technically helps, but the CPU is the most important thing. The GPU is second when it comes to Big Box. The SSD helps, but raw read and write speed doesn't do as much. I watched the system monitor go when recaching my entire library, and the CPU, RAM and then HDD were the most used. LaunchBox and Big Box also have two different caches, so make sure Big Box is fully done caching. If it's still caching, then it could also create lag. You certainly don't have a bad CPU, GPU or amount of RAM, but Windows wants as much as it can handle, and then the rest is being used for all programs and processes open. This is a tad quick and dirty, because we've all repeated our tips and tricks several times, so other threads may go in to it a bit deeper if you're not shy of searching. If you have any more questions though, feel free to ask.

It's one of my older tutorials, almost a year old, but the info is still the same. Using the latest RA version, and remembering that the UI and buttons to navigate RA have changed slightly, try and follow this and see if it helps. Also, I've since become partial to Nestopia and bnes, but I think I used FCEUMM in the tutorial only. So like the others have said make sure the core is downloaded, the command line is set properly. Make sure the associate platform name is set for both NES and FDS, and make sure the names in there match the name of your platforms in side of LaunchBox. Look at the left hand side of LB, in the side bar, and check your system name. Make sure that name is in the associated platforms box (aka, if you use the default naming scheme, make sure the default name is in there). FDS Also requires a BIOS file. Any info for a systems BIOS is in the corresponding info file in the RA info folder. I do cover the BIOS requirement in the video, except where to find it. firmware_count = 1 firmware0_desc = "disksys.rom (Famicom Disk System BIOS)" firmware0_path = "disksys.rom" firmware0_opt = "false" notes = "Suggested md5sum:|ca30b50f880eb660a320674ed365ef7a = disksys.rom"